This Homemade "Canned" Cranberry Sauce Delivers All the Jiggle But Tons More Flavor

Why It Works

• Cooking the sauce to a specific temperature range (217 to 221°F) ensures the natural pectin in the cranberries gels properly.
• Using a food mill (or blender and strainer) to purée the cranberries removes their gritty skins and creates a smooth texture in the finished sauce.
• An intricate mold, simple bowl, or empty can (for maximum nostalgia!) can be used to set the jellied sauce into the shape of your choice.

Despite my commitment to a from-scratch Thanksgiving dinner, I’ve almost always had one item on my holiday table that’s decidedly not homemade: a can of jellied cranberry sauce. That iconic vessel of dark maroon goo and the satisfying “thhhhwap” sound as it exits the can is pure nostalgia, sliced up into sweet, wobbly discs to serve alongside the meal.

Serious Eats / Vy Tran

But the flavor of that canned sauce? I have to admit that it’s pretty one-note. A few years ago, I realized that with gorgeous local cranberries all around me where I live in New England, I could make an even better “canned” cranberry sauce, one that’s perfectly gelled with a smooth texture and balanced flavor.

Made with just cranberries, sugar, and water, this sauce has an ideal balance between sweet and tart and is bursting with fresh cranberry flavor, but you can also add grated orange zest or fresh ginger to the mix to liven things up at the holiday table. It’s so good, I think it’ll convince devotees of the cylindrical purple blob to step away from the can once and for all.

Defining Jelly, and the Science Behind It

I ran a small jam business for many years, so the idea of something “jellied” is quite familiar to me. To those less acquainted with making fruit jelly, it can seem like magic: You start with a pile of fresh fruit, wave a wand (okay, actually a spatula) over a bubbling, boiling cauldron, and then everything comes together into a glistening, jewel-toned sliceable jelly that is firm enough to hold its shape when jiggled.

I assure you, though, that there is chemistry behind the magic, and understanding it is key to making great jelly. One way to get fruit preserves to gel is to activate the fruit’s natural pectin, a compound found in all fruits and vegetables, but in varying amounts. When fruit containing a high amount of pectin is heated, the pectin is released from the fruit’s cell walls and dissolves into any added water.

When combined with sugar and heated to 217 to 221°F (103 to 105°C) to evaporate excess moisture, the pectin chains bind together to form a gel. At this temperature range (8° higher than boiling water) enough water evaporation will have occurred that the concentration of sugar will be about 65% and the pH will be acidic, somewhere between 3.1 and 3.6, which is the sweet spot for gelling to occur. The higher the amount of pectin in the fruit, the stronger the gel that forms. If the fruit you start with doesn’t have a lot of pectin, you can add commercial powdered pectin (extracted from high-pectin fruits) to the mixture to achieve the same effect.

Serious Eats / Vy Tran

Luckily, cranberries are chock-full of pectin, and a great fruit choice for making jelly; they don’t need any additional powdered pectin or thickeners to ensure a proper jiggly set. Heating the cranberries in water ensures the cranberry skins burst open, releasing their pectin to jumpstart the gelling process. On top of being loaded with pectin, cranberries are also acidic, which helps the jelly to set even more firmly.

How to Ensure the Perfect Sliceable Cranberry Jelly Texture

The major challenge with making jelly with the ideal sliceable set is that the pectin web doesn’t really solidify until the jelly mixture cools down. That means it’s tricky to tell whether you’ve achieved the gelling point while jelly is still hot, as it will still be a liquid. A foolproof way to tell if the sugar has bonded with the water and the pectin to its proper gelling phase is to cook the fruit mixture until it hits the ideal temperature range around 220℉, as noted above. 

Serious Eats / Vy Tran

Another reliable test that I always use to double check the jelly’s set is the “plate test.” The plate test is a classic preserving technique in which a small spoonful of the hot fruit mixture is quickly cooled to a solid state on a frozen plate. If the mixture has properly gelled, it will make a clear trail when you push your finger through it on the chilled plate. It’s a sneak preview of the cooled sauce to confirm if it will set. If the jelly is still too runny, just keep cooking it and performing the frozen plate test every five minutes until you achieve the consistency you want.

Selecting the Jelly Mold

The perfect jellied cranberry sauce needs the perfect mold. A mold with intricate designs or bold ridges will show off the sauce’s firmly-gelled texture here, and provide a wow moment on your holiday table. If, like me, you collect vintage copper Jell-O molds, this is the perfect excuse to use one. As long as the mold holds two to three cups in volume, most molds—even those with a very intricate design—will work well here, and I encourage you to use your most specular vessel.

Serious Eats / Afton Cyrus

If you don’t have any specialty molds on hand, no problem! A simple, two-cup bowl works well too. My penchant for nostalgia also led me to wonder if I could use a clean, 15-ounce empty can as a mold, achieving the same look as store-bought canned cranberry jelly. Indeed, the sauce gelled perfectly in the can and released with those iconic ridges intact, so purists really can have it all.

My Advice for Unmolding the Jelly

You’ve methodically prepared and waited patiently for your cranberry sauce to firm into the perfect solid jiggly mass, but now you’ve got to somehow get it out of its mold in one solid piece. To get your sauce to unmold cleanly from its vessel (no matter what type you use), you need to release the suction that forms between the sauce and the mold. Once this suction is successfully loosened, the jelly should pop out in one fell swoop.

The best way to ensure this is to very gently run a small offset spatula or butter knife around the edges and down the sides of the mold, just enough to break the seal. If, after trying this, it still sticks to the mold after flipping over, try rapping the plate and mold firmly on the counter to encourage it to release, and/or tip the mold up slightly and again run your spatula or butter knife up along one side of the mold until it releases, trying not to mar the surface of the sauce. You should hear that signature “thhhhwap,” similar to the canned sauce.

Serious Eats / Vy Tran

I don’t recommend dipping the mold into hot water in efforts to loosen the jelly from the mold; while doing this will help the jelly unmold easily, when warmed, even just for a few seconds, the exterior of the jelly may soften back into a liquid, causing the mixture to lose its molded definition and pool around the bottom once flipped. You might be left with cranberry soup instead of cranberry sauce!

Whether intricately molded or molded in a can and then sliced into those nostalgic circles, this easy and delicious jellied cranberry sauce is worthy of your from-scratch effort.

Serious Eats / Vy Tran